4. The Bangles Making Process.

Façonneur de verre (lomvala) tenant un magasin de pan masala sur son établi (à sa gauche) en même temps qu'il travaille dans l'usine de bracelets. Firozabad, 2022.jpg

A glass worker in a factory. He holds a shop tobacco shop (on his left) while working to get some extra money. Photo: A.Kaba, 2022

The serial bangle making process is very complex. There are fourteen production posts for the part made in the factory. The main craft is the wiring, performed  by a worker called tarvala, who is usually paid more than  double the other skilled workers. The wire is rolled on an axis called belen into a helicoidal spire that is then cut into rings, that are themselves completed outside the factory. 

Fileur de bracelets (tarwala) fumant en travaillant. Firozabad, 2021.jpg

A wirer (tarwala), smoking while working. becasue they are essential, the tarwalas have even less pauses than the other workers. Photo: A.Kaba, 2022

All the operations before the wiring aim at preparing the glass to be stretched into a wire, and all the operation afterwards are considered as a completion of the bangles, hence the wiring is the key stage of the processt. When the industry started, this stage was mastered only by the Sheshgarh.

Ouvrier extrayant la couleur concentrée d'un four. Firozabad, 2019.jpg

A glass remover. He is now working on a night shift, removing the melted glass infused with concentrated colour that will be used as a pigment during the day. Photo: A.Kaba, 2019

Nowadays, the skills have trickled down to other communities, but Sheeshgarhs are still dominant as tarwalas today. After leaving the factory, the bangles are completed and joined in the working-class neighbourhood's houses (jalai and julai) and then decorated in workshops spread out in the Old Town.

Ouvrière cassant les blocs de couleur concentrée dans une usine de bracelets. Firozabad, 2021.jpg

Women worker breaking concentrated coulour glass. Women are strongly discriminated in the factories, young women are usually not allowed to work in the factories by their husbands or fathers because sexual harassment is common here, and elder women are confined to the less valued and worse paid jobs, like this one or cleaning the factory. Photo: A.Kaba, 2021

4. The Bangles Making Process.